Wednesday 25 September 2013

September mini tour

I recently bought a Salsa Fargo frame. As usual my justification was a mix of carefully thought out reasons and blind want. My On One 29er which I built a few years ago as a rough track tourer had served me well in Iceland the previous year but since then had languished until getting pressed into service as a rigid mountainbike prior to my full time switch to rigids when I got the Krampus at the beginning of this year. I'd fancied a go with a drop bar touring type bike that would handle some rough stuff and my pal Iona raved about hers. I could use most of the bits off the on one and Triton Cycles were doing fargo frames for £400. What more encouragement did I need?

Of course you always end up spending more money on new bits (brakes, bars, stem, seatpin, headset, cables, etc. etc) but it went together fairly quickly and a few test rides as part of my usual adventure commutes showed it was a nice handling bike and comfy to boot. Long mudguards were an issue. You could get them in the US but not in the UK - the usual story of UK importers failing to see an upcoming trend. Fortunately I could buy them through Amazon although by the time you added import fees, postage and VAT they were nigh on £50.... Still I now had a sorted tourer that would take on anything you could throw at it. All I needed to do was to give it a proper test and do a tour.

The pleasant weather we've had this year still seemed to be persisting in September so after a quick squint at the forecast, Friday was booked off work and a plan was hatched. As it happened Iona was helping to organise a girls only mountainbike race in Inshriach Forest, south of Aviemore and the race base was at Laganlia outdoor centre. A bash was planned for the Saturday night post race and un-official camping would be available. Right then that's where we are going! The bike was loaded, using my now de-rigeur bikepacking set up. 



I had a leisurely start, departing the house at about 10. I followed various back roads and bits of cycleway west through Clackmannashire and past Stirling. Then it was a bit of A road to Bridge of Allan followed by quiet back roads along the Teith valley to Doune and then Callander. I stopped at Callander for an early lunch, noting with some concern the somewhat cloudy and murky skies to the west. The forecast had been for sunshine and a cool breeze so this didn't bode well. Sure enough on departing Callander on the cycleway, a cold dreich blew in. Fortunately the cycleway quickly disappears into woodland so waterproofs were avoided. This is the start of a long length of off-road cycleway all the way to Killin. It follows a mix of paths, tracks and a long length of disused railway line including the famous Glen Ogle line and viaduct. Years ago I worked for Sustrans and I'd been involved in constructing a lot of this route. It's a corker and well worth a ride. I bombed along it on the fargo, having particular fun on the wee trail up past the falls of Lenny. We used to stay in an old CTC hut near Loch Lubnaig and used this path as the route to the Lade Inn near Callander. The ride home was always done seriously under the influence and lead to many crashes and silliness......

A while later, I passed by the hut and it still seems to be intact and owned by the CTC. Whether its still used, I have no idea. Beyond this point you pass some Forestry Commission chalets then its another nice section alongside the loch with a couple of narrow trails and some forest track. At Strathyre I stopped for a late lunch, sat outside in the now warm afternoon. There followed a short road section and then a great section on an old military road followed by more railway line to an old viaduct. This had all been my project and this was only the second time I'd ridden it. Nobody else was around so more fast paced riding followed.



This bridge replaced a center span of a viaduct which was removed when the line was shut. It turned into a mission of a scheme as the Contractor assembled it incorrectly which meant it didn't fit. Basically they had measured the skew wrong and offset the two big tubular arches 500mm out.... There followed two weeks of very long hours (for the contractor) taking it to bits and putting it back together; whereupon it was raised into place again, this time successfully. By the look it had just been re-painted and looked fab.

Soon after it was the long climb up a series of steep switch backs to the upper rail line. Finally the sun was shining so I stopped on the old viaduct to take in the views. This line used to get regularly blocked by landslips. When Mr Beeching was reviewing Britain's rail network with a view to rationalising it there was a particularly bad slip on this line and the decision was made to shut it there and then. 50 years later and its back open again, albeit for bikes, peds and horses.




My legs were starting to tire by this time. I've done a fair bit of bike riding this year, broken collarbone excepted, but nothing really long distance. Still I had plenty of recovery time on the long descent to Killin but after another short road ride it was straight into the humongous climb out of Loch Tayside over to Glen Lyon. Oddly I felt OK up this but a few more patches of dreich came through making me feel a bit dubious about camping. I was aiming for an FC basic campsite beside Loch Rannoch but another huge climb lay between me and it.

This is over the Lairig Ghallabhaich. I rode this in 1994 and had vague memories of it being OK but with some big puddles along the top. The first part of the climb was steep but fine given my nice low bottom gear. It did seem to go on a bit though and after leaving the forestry more dreich came in leading to me having to dive into waterproofs. Then the track roughened substantially and kept climbing. Its the usual story. When its the end of a long day, your not sure of the route and the weather is closing in, big moor crossings like this seem to go on for ever. I was also finding the limitations of a bike with dropped bars and 50mm tyres over the rocky track. It was just a case of keeping it in a low gear and twiddling your way along. Eventually I reached a gate into more forestry and soon enough was bombing down a smooth forest track. I skidded to a halt at a junction looking for the nice descent we'd climbed up on that day in '94. After a bit of faffing and nose following I got on it and what a nice descent it is. The map shows it as a double track but its a nice smooth path beside the river and under pleasant pine trees. The rain had stopped and the sky was clearing once more.

At the bottom I had a bit more faffing finding a way across the river to the campsite that I could see opposite. Then it was a quick throw up of the tent, a wash in the bathroom (no showers) cough up a fiver for the privilege and then make a late tea. Couscous, cheese and smoked sausage, yum.... At least I had cookies for afters! Then it was into the tent as the midges were coming out (in September!) read book and crash out after what had been a long day - nigh on 85 miles.




The next morning was somewhat grey and damp - a low lying mist which soaked everything and allowed the midges full reign. I cowered in the tent making breakfast then packed up and made a sharp exit to beat the winged menaces. I was aiming for a track / path from the north side of Loch Rannoch to Dallnaspidal Lodge on the A9. The mist was clearing as I cycled round the head of the loch revealing steeply wooded slopes and bigger hills to the north. The map indicated two tracks out of Rannoch which joined some way above an estate house. I took the first one but it was pretty rough for the most part and made for hard work on the fargo. Once it joined the other track it improved to a smooth estate road which climbed steadily for several miles. The map showed a building near the end of this track which I hoped would be a bothy.




Duinish - a bothy right enough. It was a bit rough and ready but would make a nice stopping off point. It was now quite sunny and warm so I sat outside for an early lunch. The track continues to a bridge over the Alt Shallain and then fades into the moor. The map showed about 1.5k of path before another track alongside Loch Garry was joined. This path turned out to be a vague line and an argocat track. I followed the argo track until it ventured into a flat, wet area then traced the vague path line along the foot of the hillside. This avoided the prodigious bog land between me and the loch. In fact everything was pretty dry so soon enough I was back on good track all the way to Dallnaspidal. From here I stuck to the Sustrans cycleway all the way to the turn off for Laganlia. For once I stopped at the cafe just off the A9 and Ralia. Its the usual over priced tourist affair but my need for coffee and cake outweighed any financial considerations. 

The A9 cycleroute is pretty good, using bits of the old road and sections of new path. From Ralia it follows the road to Newtonmore, a fine bit of cycleway to Kingussie and then the back road to Insh and Feshie Bridge. All pleasant pedaling with a stiff tailwind. On arrival at Laganlia I was greeted by a large volume of people. By this time the race was largely done so I'd arrived just in time for the social bit. Effectively I was gate crashing this event but being pals with one of the organisers got me in buck shee. So I availed myself of the barbeque and soon enough got stuck into the beers. I met a few folk I've known over the years including a few I'd not seen in ages. Ionas' partner Rob was there as he'd been a race marshall. So there followed a very convivial late afternoon and evening which went on to the wee small hours. I'd taken the precaution of pitching the tent before the ale flowed too freely so I was able to crash out easily enough when the drink finally ran out. 




Sunday morning dawned warm and sunny. I went in search of breakfast, aware that my tent was pitched on the course of the kids dirt crit (i.e. race) due to start later on. Then it was pack up, say cheerio to all and commence by journey home. As part of a tour I did in 2010 through the Western Isles, I came back via Aviemore. Iona joined me for part of my journey south on her then newly acquired fargo, keen to test it out on the Gaik pass. So it was fitting that I should do the same on mine today. There was a bit of a stiff headwind heading up Glen Tromie but its a great route and well within the fargos capabilities. 




Even the short single track section was taken care of without too much grief. Again it was just a case of getting into the granny gear and trundling slowly, but steadily along. After the usual faff crossing the Eddendon water I was soon bombing down the doubletrack at high speed.

Emerging at Dalnacardoch presented a choice of routes. I could stick to the NCN south to Perth and thence home via a good mix of wee roads. I could probably do this in one go but I had the Monday off as well so a longer, more scenic route was on the cards. From Dalnacardoch there is a great mix of wee roads over to Trinafour, Tummel Bridge, Aberfeldy, Crieff and then home. How far I'd get along this was debatable after a late start but there should be plenty of camping options so I was fairly relaxed. Its a hilly route but there was very little traffic so I was able to maintain a steady pace that suited my somewhat tired legs.

Aberfeldy provided a late lunch stop and then it was over the big moor to Sma Glen and finally Crieff at around 5pm. I knew of a campsite attached to a mini trail centre a few miles along the A84 west of Crieff so this seemed like a good stopping point. It was actually only about thirty odd miles home but I didn't have any lights with me so this was a no-no. Crieff Co-op provided food and beer for the evening and then I spun along the main road which was empty at this hour. It did cross my mind that the site could be shut, given that it was a Sunday night out of season but on arrival, a guy appeared to sign me in and indicate where to camp - basically anywhere. Given the midge situation I avoided the woods and pitched on one of the fields in the light breeze. It was pretty much dark by this time so I sat in the gloaming eating, reading and drinking. A perfect way to end an 85 mile day and this mini tour. 

The next morning I had a leisurely start given my short journey home. This was dispensed via more great wee roads, none seeing any traffic, finishing with the steady climb out of Dunning, home by lunchtime.

As a test for the Fargo this trip was spot on. I did nearly 250 miles and it was super comfy, I definitely found its limits but it also showed that it could deal with rougher trails, you just had to go slowly. I was less convinced by the Salsa Woodchipper bars as these seemed to put your hands at a funny angle and weren't that comfy on the hoods. So yet another pair of bars is probably required at some point. This will probably be my last trip of 2013 but I've already got some ideas for trips next year. This weekend has also shown I can do back to back long(ish) days so I'm seriously considering entering the Highland Trail next year....

Thursday 15 August 2013

Orkney Fatbiking

2013 has been a funny old year for me. It got off to a good start with one of the best winters I've experienced (excepting the monsters of 09/10 and 10/11). I did lots of skiing, on and off piste and really got to grips with fat biking on the snow. Spring took a while in coming and we got a fair bit of crap weather in late April, early May but this changed later on with some fine weather and warm sunshine.

I kind of cashed in on this on my week touring around the highlands bagging various ace trails, but my spring riding ended rather disastrously with a crash and a broken collarbone. Cue six frustrating weeks sat in the house watching the sun beat down outside. At least I was able to use the turbo trainer to keep my fitness going. Come July when I was getting back out again the weather inevitably broke. But August saw it picking up again and I'd got some time off to do some easy bikepacking.

After much deliberation I felt that the Orkneys would be the ticket. I've been four times on a motorbike and each time experienced generally good weather. I'd eyed up various beaches on the islands on the OS and following on from our successful fat bike tour of the Western Isles in 2012 I knew the Orkneys would be good.

Specifically Sanday, one of the northern most of the islands and as the name suggests containing much sand. In view of my still sore and weak shoulder I decided to use hostels and bag the beaches and shorelines on day trips. Digs were booked and one leisurely Saturday morning I cruised up the A9 to Thurso. I'd left super early to miss the traffic so it was an easy drive arriving in plenty of time to get the ship from Scrabster to Stromness. 

The beast loaded up and ready to go

This must be one of the UK's top ferry journeys as you pass the Old Man of Hoy - famous and much climbed rock stack next to the island of the same name. From Stromness to Kirkwall was all on road but there was no traffic and the fatbike rumbled happily away underneath me, my pace easy given the time I had. A large raincloud was overhead and passing slowly across my path. I caught the tale end of it but sheltered in a Pub in Kirkwall during the worst of it. By the time I headed for the Sanday Ferry the cloud was breaking and the sky clearing.

Ferry journeys around the Orkneys are nearly as pleasant as the main crossing from Scotland. They can be pretty wild as well - on my first visit the boat was rolling through a 30 degree arc which was somewhat alarming until you realise that the skippers are all ex fishing boat pilots so used to far far worse. On this evening the crossing was flat calm. Arriving at Sanday just after 5 felt like I'd entered another world. Once the small amount of ferry traffic and the bus had dispersed I had the place to myself. I stuck to the blacktop as I was saving the fun for tomorrow but I got tantalising glimpses of vast beaches on the ride to Ayre and the hostel.


The evening was spent chilling in the hostel, me being the only occupant despite it being a Saturday during the school holidays, wandering up the nearby beach and checking out the sunset.


The next morning was rather damp and grey but the sky was starting to clear as I headed away from the hostel in search of the beach. This was at Roos Wick and rather shingly. I had no particular plan other than to ride as much of the coastline as I could. I picked my way north east doing bits of beach, bits of the machair and bits of path or track behind the dunes. Various rocky bits added interest, the sky was clearing and my shoulder was behaving. I kept to the shore round Whitemill point and back down the peninsular all on the beach. This is ultimate fat biking - no path to follow, just pick a line through the rocks and rock, the big tyres rolling over everything in their path.



Seaweed bog...

A bit of road riding took me through the village of Lady and out through the dunes to the Bay of Newark. 





By chance I'd got the tides right and the sea was receding as I cruised along the flat sand. Past Newark Farm there were two rock areas which I got through clean, continuing my ever expanding discovery of what a fat bike can do. Then more easy beach past a spooky wreck of a German battleship from the first world war, one of many such wrecks around the islands. 




Looking north I could see the flat island of North Ronaldsay, the northerly most of the Orkneys, looking like it was barely above sea level.

I reversed my route for a section and did some more road riding to head for Quyoness, one of many neolithic sites around the islands. This particular one was the remains of tomb. These oversized graveyards litter the Highlands of Scotland and the various islands and pre-date the pyramids.
This one is fairly intact, most being just a pile of stones these days

A quick route reversal got me back onto the main road (not that main) and down to Kettletoft, the main village on the island - also not that main but possessing a pub. I then sat out in the now sunny afternoon drinking beer and reflecting on a fine days riding. Afterwards I had a wander up and down one last beach before heading back to the hostel for tea. 

The next morning was bright and sunny so I left early and picked up one more section of beach on the way back to the ferry terminal. The journey back to the Mainland was also flat calm. A biggish cloud was wandering in from the south but barely watered me as I pedalled out of Kirkwall down to Scapa before the sun came back out.


Scapa Beach and Scapa flow - a vast circle of sea surrounded by islands. Nowadays used as a parking area by oil tankers serving the flotta refinery but underneath is the resting place of numerous German and British warships from both wars.


On the way up to Westray

4pm saw me back on a ferry to Westray. This is the island I've stayed on on my previous visits and is a belter. A well stocked shop (absent on Sanday oddly), a good pub / hotel, plenty of beaches, some big cliffs and puffins! After another easy crossing and another leisurely pedal up the road from the ferry terminal to Pierwall, I checked into another empty hostel and headed for the pub. The Pierwall hotel serves whatever comes off the fishing boats and its bloody good. I had a fine feed and several Orkeny Ales before staggering back to the hostel for bed.

Tuesday was to be another fat bike exploration day. I headed straight for the beach north of Pierwall and made may way along it until the land started rising away from the shoreline and I picked up the road to the northern tip of the island. This goes to gravel for the last bit and finishes at a lighthouse. On a previous occasion several of us stood on the cliffs nearby and watched a basking shark swimming around in the seas some 200 feet below us. Today there were no sharks but lots of sea birds and lots of sea. Sitting watching a flat horizon of endless waves has got to be one of the most relaxing things to do, particularly if there is no one there but you. Beach holidays in Spain? You can stuff'em!

From the Lighthouse the plan was to follow a marked path down the west coast to Bis Geos. This turned out to be a cracker - dry and smooth with a fair few up and downs and lots of big cliffs. Oh and birds, thousands of birds.



We'd fished off this vast rock amphitheater on previous visits. I can't think of anywhere else quite like it so wasted plenty of time riding around. 

Beyond Bis geos the coast path looked more fenced in and covered in stiles so I headed up a path back to the road and past what used to be an ace hostel but is now just holiday lets. Good spot though.

Hmm, it was still early, what to do? Ride more beach of course. I headed north east past Rackwick and then on a whim turned onto a stony shore and decided to see how far I could go. Lots of rock, rocks and sand - it was ace. 


Eventually after the Bay of Skail the going got progressively harder until eventually I ran out of shore. Wonder whats behind the shore? Peeps over grassy bank, Oh its an airfield....

A quick scout about revealed precisely no-one so I hopped up with the bike and pedaled across the nice mown grass of one of the landing strips to the 'terminal.' Basically a brick hut with (fortunately) no-one in. The service from Inverness to here is somewhat infrequent so it had been a good risk. I took a quick pedal up to Bow head but the shore was all low cliffs so turned back and returned to base to sit in the afternoon sun reading and drinking tea.
Sunset over Pierwall

The next morning I had plenty of time for the boat so aimed for a further section of beach round the Bay of Tuquoy. This was easy going until it ran out and I picked up the marked path which was rather narrow and overgrown with nettles so a certain amount of grimacing followed. I rejoined a track then the road and then headed for another previously visited spot - Castle Burian. This is puffin central and I was hoping for some close ups of these fabulous birds. 

This place is a Geologists paradise.

A puffin

Another one

In flight!

At last I had to leave for the boat back to Kirkwall. It had been cloudy again and even a bit drizzly but the sun had made a reappearance for the easy run down the Westray firth past Sanday.

I rode straight through Kirkwall as I was staying in Stromness that night. The bunkhouse was full so I'd splashed out on a hotel (with a pub of course). I also had to bag a few neolithic features too of course.

The Stones of Stenness. One of several such standing stones, the purpose of which is unknown. I have my own theory - they built it because they could.

I had a pleasant evening in Stromness, catching up with a couple I'd known in Stirling Orchestra who had moved out here to work and live the previous year. By chance I'd bumped into them in Kirkwall the other day so it was good to socialise. Oh and eat fine food and drink fine ales.

Thursday was my last day of riding proper and my goal was Hoy. There were several other bikes on the wee ferry from Stromness to Moaness on Hoy but none had tyres as wide as mine! I've grown use to peoples comments when they they see the fatty but this was the first time I'd been in a place with so many people in close proximity. I don't like being the centre of attention so stood near the back of the boat checking out the view.

My destination - the hills above St. Johns Head

I was off as soon as we docked, up the road a ways and then straight up the hillside, a hard push heading for the summit of Cuilags and thence St. Johns Head. 

Hard but in the sun!

Summit of Cuilags at 433m the second highest point on the Orkneys. Looking north to Mainland and Westray.

Across the top was a mix of stones, heather and tussocks but all well within the fat bike's capabilties. I finally reached the trig point of Sui Fea just above St Johns head. In front of me the land dipped away and then stopped abruptly.....

Summit of Sui Fea

I followed a rough path down to the cliff tops. These cliffs are the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles at just over 1000 feet. Standing as close to the edge as I dared I peered down. It's a long way and difficult to judge the scale. A dot in the sea off shore revealed itself as quite a large fishing boat some way away from the cliff foot. 

Long way down.....


I ate lunch then headed south on a narrow stony path just back from the cliff edge. This was hairy. I'm not particularly bothered by heights but this yawning abyss just to my right seriously unnerved me. Between me and it was quite a steep slope. Often the path was quite technical and it was hard to focus on it rather than the drop.

Finally it moved away from The Edge and descended in fine style, the Old Man just ahead. 




I sat and viewed this impressive rock stack, a number of other people around me, they having walked in from Rackwick. I then rode out on this excellent path with another beach in sight. After checking out an ace bothy, vowing to return for a bivvy at some point, I headed down to the beach and rode along to the far end to spend some quality time in this fine place.




A while later a family appeared. In true British style they walked the length of this deserted beach and then settled down for their picnic 10 yards away from my spot. I packed up and left and cruised back along the beach. From Rackwick there is another great trail back over towards Moaness. It was along here I had my first crash since the collarbone incident so it was good to hit the deck without any sickening pain. Back to situation normal.....

I was too early for the ferry so spent some time riding the beaches nearby before the ride back to Stromness. Another evening in the pub followed (alone with my book and thoughts this time) and then my last night on the islands. 

Friday early am saw me up sharp and down to the terminal. I got on board and immediately got myself a large cooked breakfast. The sailing back was flat calm again with amazing views of where I'd been the day before.
Its hard to judge scale - the ferry is actually about a mile off shore. The top of the vertical crack is where I'd eaten lunch the previous day.

After rescuing my car I headed west along the north coast road. My destination was actually Aviemore and my friends place but I wanted to bag another Fat bike mecca which is the dunes of Durness. The drive east was a hoot. I rarely take pleasure in such things but the road was empty with many bends. Torrential rain came it at one point - I passed a couple of German cycle tourists in the inevitable capes battling the strong westerleys and I couldn't help but feel thoroughly smug having had such amazing weather in the Orkneys. I parked up in Durness and headed out to the dunes....


The beach was quite steep


Fooled you - more crazy geology


The Durness Dune Sea

The drive south via Ullapool was also a hoot on empty roads reaching Aviemore at 8. There followed a couple of days of great riding around the many trails of Aviemore then a journey home via Ballater so I could bag a trail I'd been meaning to do for ages, Glen Gairn


This is an Awesome trail, I'll be back!